Sewing: Using Bias Tape as Facing
|
One of the easiest ways to finish a neckline or similar edge is with commercial bias tape. The tape provides support for the raw edge, and is easy to apply.
Yes, it is possible to make your own bias tape, but in my humble opinion, that takes it out of the category of "easy". A later article will talk about making your own. The big benefit of bias tape is that is can be molded around curves. This type of facing is nice on curved edges like necklines, or armholes on sleeveless garments. It is especially nice for children's garments, where a full facing is just too large. By the way, there is a companion article: Using Bias Tape to Wrap an Edge - it describes a different way to use bias tape to finish an edge of a garment. |
|
If there is a disadvantage to this type of facing, it is in the fact that there is an extra line of stitching to keep the bias tape in place. If that is a big issue, or course, it could be hand-sewn into position (not my preferred choice, by any means!).
This photo shows bias tape facing the hem of a skirt. And yes, normally the facing would not be so high-contrast! But this is a demonstration item for my sewing school. |
|
|
This technique uses commercial bias tape. If you can get single fold tape, that is ideal. Double fold tape will work as well, although I usually try to press the center fold flat. All you need are the two folds that are close to the edge of the bias tape.
The first step is to pin the bias tape to the garment, right sides together. In the photo at right, the fold of the bias tape furthest from the edge has not been unfolded - it is just tucked under the pins. There is no benefit to having it completely unfolded, because in the end it is going to be folded anyway. |
|
|
The goal is to have the bias tape pinned so that it is completely flat, or as close to flat as possible.
This means that on the curves, you will have to stretch or scrunch it to make it fit. A shot of steam can help with this part of the exercise. Now sew right in the fold that is closest to the edge of the garment. Heads up! This tells you that the seam allowance for this part of the garment is precisely the width of the fold of the bias tape. You may have to trim the seam allowance of the garment prior to applying the bias tape facing, especially for necks or armholes. |
|
|
After sewing the seam in the fold, press the facing toward the edge. DO NOT press the facing flat - the goal is to just press the area around the seam.
In the photo, notice how the iron is just barely touching the bias tape. |
|
|
Now that the edge seam is flat, press the bias tape to the wrong side.
Because the bias tape was originally pinned as flat as possible, it should be equally flat when pressed to the wrong side. |
|
| This photo shows the bias tape facing completely pressed. |
|
| To hold the bias tape facing down, stitch close to the edge of the tape, as shown in the photo. |
|
| This photo shows a flat bias tape facing, despite the curved edge. |
|
| And this is the right side of the piece. Normally, the seam would be done in matching thread. |
|
| This photo shows the bias facing on a circular ruffle on a skirt. The facing was sewn with thread to match the skirt, so that it is difficult to see the stitching on the right side of the skirt. |
|
ConclusionUsing commercial bias tape to face a curved edge is an easy and effective method to finish that raw edge. Try it! |